The opening of Shein’s first physical store in Paris has generated significant interest, drawing long lines of eager shoppers. However, the event has been overshadowed by protests and criticism regarding the brand’s controversial practices. On November 1, 2023, the Chinese fast-fashion retailer opened its doors in the upscale BHV department store located on Rue de Rivoli. Despite initial excitement, the launch has sparked a backlash over allegations related to labor practices and environmental concerns.
BHV’s owner, Frédéric Merlin, welcomed the first customers, expressing confidence in the partnership with Shein. As he cut the ribbon for the sixth-floor shop-in-shop, he noted that the store had attracted around 50,000 visitors on opening day. Yet, this enthusiasm was marred by protests, with demonstrators holding signs reading, “Protect the children. Not Shein.” Some activists went so far as to confront the shoppers, urging them to reconsider their support for the brand.
Shein, one of the largest fast-fashion companies globally, has faced numerous accusations, including allegations of child labor and unsafe working conditions. Environmentalists have also criticized the brand for contributing to the problem of disposable fashion, flooding the market with low-cost clothing. Despite these issues, many shoppers in line cited affordability as a primary reason for their interest in the brand. One customer remarked, “Nobody here in the queue condones pedophiles, okay?” as she defended her decision to shop.
The backlash has prompted several French brands to sever ties with BHV in response to its collaboration with Shein. Notably, the respected womenswear label Agnès B. announced its withdrawal, with founder Agnès Troublé stating, “I am totally against this fast fashion, which is worse than anything.” The brand plans to end its contract with BHV when it expires in January 2024.
Other brands, including Skin & Out, A.P.C., Odaje, and Figaret Paris, have also removed their products from BHV, underscoring the growing discontent within the fashion community. Skin & Out’s co-founder, Amélie Desazars Laparra, took the initiative to buy back her brand’s products after breaking the contract with BHV over the Shein partnership, as shown in a video posted by the brand.
BHV’s plans to expand its partnership with Shein include opening shops within five Galeries Lafayette locations across France. However, Galeries Lafayette has since canceled its licensing agreement with BHV due to the association with Shein, leading to the removal of its name from various department stores. The affected locations were set to launch Shein shop-in-shops in early December; however, BHV has now delayed these openings without providing specific new dates. A spokesperson stated that the company aims to improve product offerings and pricing before proceeding.
The ongoing controversy surrounding Shein has raised questions about the future of fast fashion in France. As the French government continues to monitor the situation for compliance with regulations, the impact of consumer sentiment and corporate responsibility remains to be seen. Amid these developments, shoppers are left to navigate the complex landscape of fashion retail, balancing affordability with ethical considerations.
