The Soshiotsuki Fall 2026 Menswear collection made a striking debut at Pitti in Florence, showcasing the innovative vision of Japanese designer Soshi Otsuki. Following his recent win at the prestigious LVMH Prize, Otsuki’s first international show outside Japan drew significant attention, with expectations running high among attendees.
Arriving from Milan early on the morning of the show, Otsuki appeared bleary-eyed yet content after managing only a few hours of sleep during the bus journey. “It seems like it was well received, so I’m relieved,” he expressed, clearly pleased with the outcome of the presentation. The atmosphere in the historic refettorio of the Santa Maria Novella was charged as guests awaited the unveiling of a collection that had already generated considerable buzz.
Otsuki’s previous lookbooks had gained viral popularity for their nostalgic nod to Japan’s bubble era and their affinity for Armani tailoring. However, he was acutely aware of the need to establish a distinct identity separate from these influences. “I’ve been asked about Armani so much in interviews over the past few months that I’ve become a little neurotic about it,” he joked backstage. To address this, he collaborated with stylist Alister Mackie, infusing the collection with “a touch of ’80s flair” while keeping it firmly modern.
The resources available to Otsuki post-LVMH win allowed him to expand his creative network. “I was able to incorporate the opinions of people who aren’t accustomed to Japanese salaryman culture,” he noted, indicating a desire to broaden his artistic scope. The collection’s intricate details and unique fabric choices truly set it apart. Notable features included oversized peak lapels, cropped and ribbed cardigans, and trousers adorned with an abundance of pleats, which created a striking visual effect. One standout look showcased a trompe l’oeil jumpsuit that cleverly mimicked a button-up shirt paired with trousers.
Otsuki’s innovative approach extended to fabric development as well. He yarn-dyed suiting fabrics in a fresh combination of black and beige to create a new shade of gray, an evolution of his renowned sewer-rat power suits. The collection also introduced bolder colors and textures, including vibrant orange cable knit sweaters, thick corduroy in shades of forest green and brown, and distinctive toffee leather suits, which contributed to a sense of freshness in tailoring.
A particularly noteworthy collaboration was with Proleta Re Art, a Japanese brand celebrated for its meticulous hand-stitched fabrics. Together, they produced a sashiko suit and jeans that blended traditional craftsmanship with contemporary streetwear. Additional partnerships included a quarter-zip design with Asics, cigarette holder rings crafted by artist Kota Okuda, and shirts developed with Spanish shirtmaker Camisas Monolo. These collaborations reflect Otsuki’s strategic efforts to widen his brand’s influence and establish a lasting legacy.
The reception to the collection was overwhelmingly positive. As the show concluded, attendees rushed to catch a glimpse of this emerging talent from Japan. One enthusiastic audience member exclaimed, “Beyond! It was beyond!” Otsuki, embracing the moment with his characteristic calmness, absorbed the acclaim while navigating through a sea of flashing cameras.
This debut at Pitti not only marks a significant milestone for Otsuki but also signals a new chapter in global menswear, blending influences from both Japan and beyond. The Fall 2026 collection stands as a testament to his artistic evolution and his commitment to pushing the boundaries of contemporary tailoring.
